Getting the water out of your sprinkler system before the weather turns frigid avoids potential damage to your sprinkler heads and lines. It’s also a great way to wear out the kids as they run around seeing what sprinklers are hissing like dragons. As water freezes, it expands, creating pressure that can break plastic and metal. Here in the PacNW, the crisp October mornings bring yard crews with pamphlets announcing winterizing in the $75-125 range. And one of the things we love to do is save money. Although I sometimes look at it as how many times over have I paid for a tool – my air compressor owes me nothing!
Winterizing your sprinklers is an easy DIY and it takes me about 45 minutes. It would be faster if I had something larger than my pancake compressor (see on Amazon).
A larger compressor will make shorter work of it. You will be amazed how much you find uses for a compressor when you have one – it made short work of blowing up many balloons for a birthday party!
TIP: One thing about doing it yourself is you can take your time and clear the lines at an appropriate pressure. I’ve seen the pressure set pretty high on the units some yard crews tow around. It could also be challenging to link winterizing to any damage that a company might cause as well.
Here are the simple steps:
1. Locate your water shutoff to your sprinklers (not your house supply) and locate your manifold or blow-out valves.
That mess above is what our valve box looks like. Each year it seems to get more full of vegetation (and spiders) and I dig it out when I can’t turn the valves. From the bottom of the picture, the first left-side lever that hits the valve box is the main water supply shut off and the second right-side lever is the manifold shut off. Close your main supply at this time (first lever).
2. Let the water pressure off the sprinkler system. Of the four upright air compressor plugs, the furthest is what you’ll use to depressurize your system. Remove the air coupler if there is one on it with a wrench, careful not to twist the manifold. There is a tiny screw on the side that takes a slot screwdriver. Move your face away (don’t watch the ball valve open) as any water pressure in the system will shoot out. Once water stops coming out of it, leave the valve open and attach your air compressor plug. Mine took a 3/8-inch like this one. Simple systems have a valve you turn that relieves pressure from the system.
3. Bring the pressure up on your air compressor. I use a modest 20-30 psi as I don’t want to put to much pressure on the lines. It also has been adequate over the years. Don’t set your pressure to zero on you line or the water will force it’s way into air hose line.
4. Locate your sprinkler control. Once your compressor is charged, turn on the sprinkler zone the furthest from your supply. Once your sprinklers start hissing or blowing air you can shut the zone off. Don’t let the sprinklers spit air too much as it can damage the internal sprinkler components. Let the compressor recharge and work your way through the rest of your zones. Ignore the clover, that’s for another day.
5. Move your face out of the way and release your air compressor coupler. As you can see below, the air pressure in the system is going to shoot back out the valve. Once done, remove your air plug and make sure you put it somewhere safe for the next season. Don’t close the ball valve yet.
6. Clear out the manifold and close up. You can open the ball valves and then push your compressor quick coupler on the valves. What little water is in there will shoot out the furthest ball valve. Once done, you can close all the ball valves. Put the lid back on and you’re all done!
Tools You May Need:
- Compressor
- Gloves: those boxes can be dirty and have spiders
- Screw driver and wrench
- Air compressor coupler and plug (mine is 3/8 inch)
- Plumbers tape (optional)
