We set out looking for the perfect vanity for our daughter’s room makeover. There were plenty of options online, but none of them quite fit the space. Nichole found some inspiration in a Pottery Barn vanity (retails for around $300) but it was to small for the space. For about $120 in materials, we set out to design and build our own version. Overall our finished project was 32w x 17.5d x 29h.
Here’s the Pottery Barn Chelsea Kids Vanity that was our inspiration: the photo shows the dimensions to show how tiny it is.
Construction and Assembly:
Step #01: Cut Vanity Legs.
We wanted to add a nice detail to the front vanity legs by cutting a long inside taper. To do this, I built a jig that worked like a charm thanks to FineWoodWorking (see guide here). It’s a simple concept – take a board longer than what you’re cutting, screw some holders on the top and bottom, and put a screw into the board — you adjust the screw to get the desired angle. Elegant and simple.
Step #02: Start Constructing the Vanity Frame.
Cut the back, sides, drawer frame area, and cross braces. For this project we bought a new DeWalt 60 tooth saw blade to make sure the cuts were clean.
I kept the joints simple for this project by using the good ol’butt joint — pocket holes and glue. I treated myself to a new Kreg jig as part of this project – love the speed and accuracy of setting the bit and hole placement. I used the Kreg hardwood screws for the first time on a project and was pleasantly surprised at how well they worked and how forgiving they could be.
TIP: To add a relief to the vanity, I placed a 1/4-inch thick piece of wood for the offset as shown below. The wood was leftover from our daughter’s butterfly slat wall art project, so keep those scraps as you never know when they’ll come in handy.
For the drawer frame box area, I tried to keep it small so that I could maximize the drawer space. I needed to predrill the spots on the small 4-inch piece at the front as it kept splitting.
TIP: If you’re going to use “L” brackets to attach the top, I suggest drill those in before you add the box frame.
I added a cross brace to pull the front of the desk into square and provide some additional support – clamps helped. This brace will require cutting the drawer wall heights down and setback to not interfere with the drawer. Also, for my next variant I’ll run a board across the face and cutout the drawer box assembly. It would be simpler to square up the drawer box.
Step #03: Build the Vanity Top.
I opted for a glue up top as I do love gluing wood together (see here for more gluing details). I wanted to keep the width of the boards on top consistent so that set the width of the project: 5 x 3.5 inches = 17.5 inches.
Here’s the final glue – sanded and ready for final paint prep, going to try something new with this one! We got some AquaCoat clear grain filler.
Step #04: Build the Drawer.
The drawer slides that I used were soft close, side mounted, and 14 inches long. The side mount slides should include instructions for clearance: ours needed a 1/2-inch clearance on each side so we made the drawer 1-inch narrower than the opening. As mentioned above, we used a 3/4-inch cross brace so cut our drawer walls down by 7/8 inch for clearance.
To maximize our available drawer depth I use my router table table to cut a channel that was 1/4-inch deep and 3/8-inch wide. Watch where you put pocket holes so that there is distance from the channel. I put my pocket screws on the front and back boards of the drawer–the drawer face board will cover the front and the back will be hidden. The grooves won’t be visible underneath either.
Cut your drawer bottom to fit and nail in place. I used a combination of glue and 18- and 22-guage nails. Attach your drawer slides making sure to align to the drawer face board.
Attach the drawer slides on the inside of the drawer box and insert the drawer. Depending on how square everything is and with a wee bit of luck you won’t have to mess too much with the adjustment slots.
To attach the top, I relied again on the trusty figure 8 fasteners (these ones). I used a 3/8 bearing and 3/16 depth. Pre-drilling the screws helped with the positioning.
For the drawer face frame, I wanted to create some dimension. Instead of tacking on trim boards, I pulled out the router. I built a “jig” to guide where I was cutting – it made a terrific mess. One of these days I’ll invest in a good dust collection system besides a portable shop vacuum clamped to my table.
The Grand Reveal
Attach the face frame to the drawer and put the drawer back in. That’s it! We just built a vanity for our little princess! Up next is finishing.
Check out how we pulled it all together!
Project Design Considerations:
With each project, there are design considerations I go over trying to implement Nichole’s vision. To help prime your creative process, here are some potential design considerations.
#01: Wood Selection. We opted for red oak for strength. Careful on the smaller boards as you may need to predrill.
#02: Desk Height and Drawer Size. We wanted something our daughter would “grow” into — but not to fast. We also wanted some clearance from the top of her knees to the bottom of the drawer. I almost used 1×6’s but opted for the 1×4’s as a 2.5-3 inch deep drawer seemed enough for this project.
#03: Front Leg Taper Length. If you’re not feeling like building a jig to cut your leg taper, you could draw by hand and cut with a saw. You could also cut a smaller taper with your miter saw.
#04: Secure to the Wall. I will secure the vanity to wall and not just because we’re in the PacNW. Depending on style, you may need to leave a gap in the back wall of the desk.
Part List:
This covers our version of the vanity that we built from a combination of red oak and poplar. I opted for red oak for it’s strength.
- 6 @ 1 in x 4 in x 8 feet (red oak)
- 4 @ 2 in x 2 in x 3 feet (poplar)
- Drawer slides
- Kreg screws
- Figure 8 Fasteners (here)
